Ethnicity and the fashion industry

It is widely known that the models gracing the runways of fashion shows in Europe and America are not ethnically diverse, but what race is the most underrepresented? In recent years quite a few modelling agencies that seek to hire only models of Afro-Caribbean decent have arisen in hope of making the fashion industry more diverse, but is this enough?

The names of Caucasian supermodels simply roll off the tongue: Heidi Klum, Cindy Crawford, Kate Moss, Gemma Ward, Lily Cole, Agyness Dean and Elle MacPhearson are just afew. Black supermodels are fewer: Alek Wek, Tyra Banks, Naomi Campbell, Iman Abdulmajid and Beverly Johnson are probably the most well known. So how about naming an Oriental supermodel? Drawing blanks? Anna Bayle is probably the only full Oriental supermodel to date, and since she was working in the 80’s that isn’t saying much. So how about a Central Asian or Near Eastern supermodel? Nope, didn’t think so.

But who is to blame for this singular perception of beauty? One argument is that it is the designer’s obligation to ensure an ethically diverse range of models on the runway. But designers have pointed out that the models provided on castings from the agencies are usually all white and so they do not have much to choose from. If the designer does not think that the model is right for their show should they pick the one ethnic model at a casting just to ensure that they’re being fair?

Or is it a cultural issue? Africa Fashion Week is taking place at the moment and the majority of the models are black. Should the African designers chose more White and Asian models to be ‘fair’ or is it the same case as above; that the models being provided by the agencies are mostly Black and so they have no choice in the matter? The big difference here is that the fashion industries in Asia and Africa generally only showcase their own talent. Japanese and Korean Vogue in my experience generally only use models from their own country (although there are exceptions, Chinese Vogue often uses models from other Asian countries) and there seems to be no pressure on them to use more European models in the same way there is for European countries to use Black and Asian models.

Is it because Europe and America are so ethnically diverse that there is more pressure to use models from all over the globe? If so, this would imply that there should be a proportional representation of models in relation to their population in a certain country. Studys show that in reality 92.1% of the population of the United Kingdom is White with only 2% Black and about 5% Asian (oriental and otherwise); not as ethnically diverse as people like to think. This sort of thinking would mean that for every 100 models chosen for a fashion show 92 of them would have to be white. This is seen as unfair, but this is what the African and Chinese Fashion industry are doing already, should they not be the ones to make changes first? One reason I would say no is that the European and American fashion industries have far more influence over the industry in general than any others, and so their reluctance to accept ethnic models sets an example for the rest of the world.

It seems to me that it is the fault of not just the agencies and designers but the fault of the perception of beauty that is unique to any given culture. The pale, blond hair, blue eyed model as the European and American ideal is not consistent with the vast amount of beauty to be found in Black, Asian and Mixed race women. In order for the agencies to scout more ethnic models and for the designers to pick them at a casting, the notion of what is beautiful needs to change, but since this is a question of adapting a cultural norm, I can’t see this happening any time soon. What do you think?

Written by Michaela Lydon